We started on a gentle uphill following the north side of the river and quickly got used to the fact that, for the next four days, we would have the river to our left. You could think that the scenery would not change that much in those conditions. That’s simply not true in the Rogue. Every turn of the river gives you something new. If that’s not enough, there are countless creeks that dump their waters into the rogue so as you hike the trail, you cross numerous very well marked bridges. The other thing we found out pretty quickly is that the trail is inhabited by all sorts of small lizards that run and jump in front of you. It was quite a spectacle hearing and watching them everywhere. Some of them even looked like small dragons taken from a movie or even prehistoric.
The first day, our plan was to get to Horseshoe Bend, a very tight turn in the river, and camp somewhere along the river. When we got there we found a small trail going down to the river and a big area for camping that was already occupied by rafters. Not liking the camp we decided to hike a bit further and look for either a campsite a friend had mentioned or something else to stay the night. We passed a couple of creeks without finding anything until a big opening showed to the left. It was Meadow Creek, one of the hiker only campsites. The site looked almost out of place as it was a big, flat area covered in grass. Perfect for our first night stay.
The following day we woke to a warm but partially overcast day. That gave the river a completely different look. As we hiked we saw the first set of rapids and some rafters navigating the river. But shortly after, we found a side trail going to Winkle Bar. We stood there trying to decide whether to go explore or not. On one side we didn’t know what we would be adding to the trip, but on the other, we didn’t know what we would be missing. So we went to Winkle Bar to explore and to our surprise we found the old Zane Grey’s cabin. It was not marked in the map!. AS far as we were able to find out, Zane Grey was the original owner of the land and lived in his little cabin in the rogue for many years fishing, writing and exploring the river. At some point he moved out and sold the land to the current owners who built a couple of cabins that are still there. Needless to say, the place is beautiful with access to the river and a big meadow that almost looks like a landing strip. It was a little piece of history in the woods.
We got back on the trail and stopped at the next creek for a lunch break watching the river. After that, the trail actually got separated a bit from the river as we were approaching the next piece of history, the Rogue River Ranch. Almost out of nowhere and after a turn, we came to this huge grass covered field with some buildings at the end. The Rogue River Ranch is another place that was privately owned where a small community used to live. It was kind of strange to walk from the woods to something that looked like a well manicured backyard. As we walked thru the property, we did check some of the buildings that are open to the public including a little museum. In it we saw pictures and part of the history of the several families that lived there. At this point the trail is a bit weird so asking for directions; we learned that we were at the boundary between the BLM land and the Rogue River Wilderness land. To continue on the trail we had to hike up to the road and continue on it until it became the trail again. Since it was already mid afternoon, we started looking for a camp at that point. From the ranch we had gotten the recommendation of going past Mule Creek and then looking for a campsite on that side. So after hiking on the road for a while we finally found the spur trail and took it. Just past that point we found a deer enjoying the shelter and shade of a big tree that couldn’t have cared less that we were there.
A bit further down we found the campsite just as the same time as a big group of rafters were unloading. Luckily it was a big enough site for everyone so we took a spot a bit higher to have more privacy. The area was great although very brushy so it took some time to find a god branch to hang food. Later that evening, as we were having dinner and talking to the rafters we learned a different trick to protect the food from the bears so all my effort to get a line for food was gone. Nevertheless, it was cool learning something new and talking to the rafters. They were doing a similar trip as we were but on rafts and what a way to camp that is. They had tables, chairs, a camp shower, a small Dutch oven… even a violin!! That was camping in style I guess.
On Tuesday we woke up again to a beautiful; day with some lingering clouds that were quickly dissipating. Before breakfast, Val and I took a walk around camp and towards the bend of the river were we got a nice view of the river bend were Mule Creek is.
After breakfast and packing our gear we were ready to continue without knowing that we were up to the most scenic section of the river. The rafters had mentioned a bit about it and also recommended us to continue to Flora Dell to camp. So that was our plan when we started. Soon after leaving Mule Creek, the trail started climbing on the side of the river as the canyon got narrower and narrower. The big wide river transformed into a thin, deep channel that snaked thru rock walls. As we continued, every bend in the river offered different views with incredible rock walls on both sides until we got to Inspiration Point. At first we though there was a building of some sort but we were wrong. Inspiration Point is just a viewpoint that looks over the Star Creek Falls on the other side of the river in this slot canyon. It’s a view that is not short of spectacular.
From Inspiration Point, the trail starts descending again as the river gets wider again and you leave the canyon behind. We did see a rafter coming down the channel just before some rapids but then the trail veered of at Paradise Creek and we left the river behind. Similarly as what we saw when we got to the Rogue River Ranch, we got to another big, manicured field with several buildings at Paradise Park. Paradise Park is a privately owned piece of land with a lodge and some other stuff. The weird part is we didn’t see any access to it and there’s some farm animals and machinery. We also saw several lawn chairs all around but not a soul in the area. It was very weird.
After circling the property, we came back to the river just before Brushy Bar where we found a huge campground and the ranger station. It seemed strange again to find such a huge place without big access. Either we had a lot of luck of not seeing to many people on the trail or there was something we didn’t know. In any case, we explored Brushy Bar and went all the way to the river for a lunch stop under the sun with our feet in the water.
After that, the trails levels out as the river continues snaking down. The hills on the sides became smaller and the creeks more sparse. Near camp Tacoma, at Tate Creek, we passed a really nice waterfall hidden in the bushes. A short bushwhack gave me a nice look at it
We continued on looking at all the different rock formations on the other side of the river until we got to a turn on the trail with an even nicer waterfall with a small pool. The water was cold and the pool in the shadow so despite me wanting to jump in, I didn’t. Also, I knew we were close to the campsite we were aiming for but I didn’t know how close or far it was
It was very close. Just after the bridge over Flora Dell Creek, we found a small spur trail going down to the river to a tiny campsite with river access. It was almost idyllic. Besides having space for the tent and direct access to the river, there was the creek dumping its water into a pool next to camp so we had cool fresh water on both sides. Passing thru some bushes and the little stream gave access to the rocky shore of the river with pretty good views to both sides. Certainly it was the best camping spot of the trip and probably one of the best spots I’ve set my tent in. That afternoon we took advantage of the creek to bathe and enjoy the last sunset of the trip
On day four we had a short hike to our exit point. So after breakfast and breaking up camp we continued on our trail with the river disappearing from view and us walking into what looked like farmland. As expected and despite the little nervousness, the car was waiting for us where we had asked for. And just to end the trip on a good note, on the drive home we went thru the coast and stopped at a small restaurant in Gold Beach that ended up being incredibly good.
