The Oregon Coast trail connects trails and roads to create a route that traverses the entire Oregon Coast. This section, from Bandon to Port Orford in the southern end of the state is remote with few access points so most of the hike must be done on wet sand. That might sound from the start as a very nice proposition but it’s not as easy as you may think. Walking on sand, all day long, not only can be tiring but it can play hard on your feet. Add to this that the Oregon coast is generally on the colder side and windy and you have a challenge. Just to top all this, there are a couple of creek crossings that can be tricky depending on time of day. Then why you do it you ask? Because the southern Oregon coast offers some pretty dramatic scenery.
Day 1: Bandon to the BLM Primitive Campsite
One of the challenges of this trail is that there’s no overnight parking at the starting point. To solve that, we left our car at the City Offices along highway 101. Our plan was to hike south for three days to Port Orford and then take a bus back to the car. This plan changed the very last day. Right from the parking area, we started questioning the forecasters who had said it was going to be cloudy in the morning but mid-morning to noon it was going to clear up and be sunny. It wasn’t looking like that, especially with the fine mist we had. After a short walk on the road, we got to the staircase that gave us access to the beach. Right from thee we could see the scenery would be dramatic with all the rock formation and haystacks. Most rocks look to be volcanic in origin but that’s just a guess given by how jagged they are. Maybe they are not and its simple erosion. Still it looked like rubbing yourself against any of the rocks would create serious damage to your skin. The contrast with the gray sky gave it an even better look as the almost seemed to come to life. Around one of the many rock formation, we found a small flooded cave that had an opening on the other side and a rock in the middle. We didn’t go in to explore even though we were twitching about it. Then we left the rocks behind and walk for miles on a flat beach with crushing waves on one side and tall grasses on the other. About half way down we had our first river crossing across the New River. It wasn’t too deep or challenging, just cold. For most of the day we saw almost no one else. Part of the reason you need to stay on wet sand is because the grassy areas is where the Western Snowy Plover nests this time of year. Aside from the notices posted by the Forest Service, the whole area is cordoned out to prevent access. There’s only one spot open in the middle where the BLM campsite is, our destination for the day. When we got there, we found the campsite empty and were quick to grab our spots. We were lucky as three or four other groups got there later and had to find sites further in close to the river. That night we ended up going to bed early and quickly after dinner as the weather never improved and was rather cold.
Day 2: BLM Primitive Campsite to Cape Blanco State Park
The second day started gray again but cleared quickly so we got the full blue skies but not the scorching sun. It was still windy and the temperature on the cooler side. After breakfast and packing our gear, we got back on the wet sand and continued our march south. The beat did not change much for several miles although we could see (and knew) there was a head towards the end of our day and we would be hiking in the forest for a bit. Just after passing Floras Lake we found the post indicating we had to get off the sand and into the forest. I was very happy about this because my feet were hurting bad. I had made the wrong choice of bringing very flat river shoes so my feet where in pain most of the time. I though changing terrain from soft sand to harder dirt was going to be good for my achy feet. It wasn’t that much but it certainly helped.
At first we walked thru a tunnel of trees that looked like an image from a Walt Disney movie but son we got deeper into the forest and gained a bit of elevation. Aside from the green forest and ferns, there were tons of Rocky Mountain Iris flowers. I took several pictures but there were so many that I decided to just hike and enjoy them along the path. I must say this is one of my favorite flowers, not only because if its color but also the shape. The trail took us down to a small creek where we crossed a smelly campsite (there was skunk cabbage everywhere) before climbing back up to the head. We saw a faint trail going to the edge of the cliff and decided to go explore as it looked interesting. I’m very glad we did as we got to a view point overlooking a rock formation with a huge arch right below us. I started looking for a path to go down an explore but didn’t see one. I think the only way to get there is as an out and back from the beach before you veer off to the forest, but that will be for another day.
Further down we found another viewpoint with views towards Blacklock Point. From the first we saw there was a big flat area ahead so we made the plan to find a way to get there and stop for lunch. We didn’t have to explore that much as the trail took us straight to that point. The sun was scorching so we had to find a little shade to have lunch but the views were incredible. From that viewpoint, aside from the amazing flower displays, we could see most of Blacklock Point which would be our next stop. Looking down towards the rocks we saw something unexpected from that point. Almost at water level, next to the rocks and half buried were a set of rail tracks. As far as we knew there were never train in this area. Later we would learn that this point has always been known for having minerals so back in the day, here were prospectors mining around along the coast so they probably put those rails to haul dirt and rocks around. After our short lunch break, we continued and got to the trail that connect to Blacklock Point. This is a very well visited area so we found a lot of people there. We made another stop, dropped our packs and walk to the very point of the rocks where we took some pictures. I kept looking south towards a black rock that, from the distance, looked like the batman mask. It was quite interesting.
Back on the beach we continued south and got to out next challenge, crossing the Sixes River. This one was not too deep but it was running fast. Then the beach got small and we saw the lighthouse in the distance. We knew we were not that far from our destination for the day. Once we climbed the side of the hill we headed to the lighthouse thinking we would cam around that area. WE later found we were wrong so just by chance and because we got there, we visited the lighthouse. Finding the campground took a little asking and a lot of walking on the road. This was not easy on my achy feet but the day was almost over. We finally made to the campground where we paid for our right to camp and found that showers were included. The campground host indicated were to find spots which we found easy. The problem was that we didn’t feel very comfortable because of a homeless guy camping, smoking and drinking right in the middle. With that, we continued to the horse area and since we found it empty we started to setup there. The ranger showed u quickly to tell us that was not going to work but when we explained the reason we understood. It seems that homeless guy frequents the campground and the complaint has been raised several times before. So, we found a flat spot under the trees and camped there for the night.
Day 3: Cape Blanco State Park to Port Orford
We woke up to wet tents. I can’t say I notice rain but I guess it did happen overnight. Still the day, as the previous day, started cloudy but soon cleared up and got pretty nice. Right after breakfast and packing we got back on the trail and shortly after ended up at a view point. That when we got our trail magic. AS we were enjoying the views, a couple popped up from the other end with two dogs. We started talking and found they were doing the same route as we were but in opposite direction. We later thought that must have been painful as they were going against the wind but read on. They told us their plan was to come out the 4th and take a bus south. They didn’t know there wasn’t going to be bus service the 4th (that was the reason we were coming out the third day). So, then the woman asked us if we were willing to get their car and drive it to Bandon and drop it off there. It didn’t take half a second to say yes so they gave us the key to their Subaru and explained where it was. We exchanged phone numbers and told then where we would leave the keys and with that, we continued our path. I must say at this point that I do admire that trusting mentality. I don’t think I’m that far as to give my car keys to a complete stranger, but that’s trail magic at its best. After the encounter, we descended to the beach and continued south until we got to Elk Creek, the last challenge of the route. We quickly found the river was way too deep to cross safely. So, we started exploring upriver to see if we could find a viable spot. Pete tested several places and got water up to his waist so we decided to drop our packs and wait for the tide to lower so we could get across. We must have waited one or two hours before it got doable even though we still got wet up to our waists.What came after that was torture though. Before the river crossing we notice the wind picking up sand and blowing it across the surface. It looked almost magical. But after the crossing the was no cover of any kind so the wind was a lot stronger. The sand was also coarser on the side but still flying. It took only one wind gust to realize we needed to put on some clothes. The sand was flying so fast that it felt like we were being sand blasted. The only way to protect yourself was to wear long pants and long sleeves which we did quickly.
That lasted for the entire length of the trail until we found what we thought would be our exit point. It wasn’t. After we didn’t find the car, we realized we hadn’t gone far enough on the beach. Instead of going back, we looked at a map and ended up walking on paved roads to the parking area where we found the expecting Subaru. I think I started this hike with an expectation of it being more like the Olympic Coast I did several years ago but it was not. This was more a walk on the beach but with its good share of challenges.
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