Eagle – Benson – Ruckel loop, Jul 28th

This long named hike is actually a combination of several trails to form a long loop and, although it has some good things to look at on the way, it’s more of a training hike than anything else. Just consider that the whole loop is about 15 miles with an elevation gain of over 400 feet. Certainly not for the faint of heart. The hike starts from the same place as the Eagle Creek hike so the first part of it is actually easy, but then you get all the elevation in a rather short distance so it’s good to save some energy for that. My post for this hike described all the details so in the end, it was Val, Jeff and I who took on the challenge. We started early and doing a quick pace on the Eagle Creek trail. As we’ve done this section of the trail many times, we didn’t stop for many pictures or took the normal detours to visits the waterfalls. Instead, we kept a steady pace trying to save time by covering the first 5 or so miles quickly. The idea was to save some time we would use later on the climb to Benson Plateau. Weather was perfect, not too hot or too cold and clear skies. After passing 4½ Mile Bridge, that brought us back to the east side of the creek, we started looking for our detour. About half a mile after Wy'East Camp we found it, a little trail to the left with a worn out sign that is barely visible from the trail. At that point we decided to take a breather, adjust layers and eat something before continuing up. Then came the huffing and puffing. In the next couple of miles we gained most of the elevation of this loop. Half of it was on a good and easy to follow trail, but as we gained elevation the trail got more difficult. Towards the end we found places were the trail was so dense and overgrown that it’s hard to follow. Once we passed the 3600’ mark we finally leveled of a bit and entered the tall trees that signal you are in Benson Plateau. The trail continued up but not as steep as before until we reached a campsite near the junction with the PCT. At that point we decided to stop for lunch and rest as most of the climbing was done. After lunch we followed the PCT to the next junction with the Benson Way trail. From that point on, the trail would be pretty flat all the way to Ruckel Creek. You can take the PCT and go thru the Plateau which eventually will take you to the same place, but we opted for the Benson Way trail as it’s easier to follow and has some openings with views to the west. We meandered thru the forest for a while until we reached Hunters Camp where the Ruckel Creek trail starts. Then we came out of the forest to start our long way down. As expected, our progress going down was as grueling as coming up. The trail is steep in places, slippery in others and rocky in the rest. That combined with the afternoon sun pounding on your head made it a bit hard. We made the necessary stops at the viewpoints to take pictures of Cascade Locks and the Bridge of the Gods but kept our pace going down. We got to a point were the only thing in our minds was getting back to the car which we eventually did, very tired, but with a great sense of accomplishment.



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Burnt Lake from Enola Hill, Jul 7th

Both Burnt Lake and Cast Lake on the west side of Mount Hood can be accessed via trails that start from Lolo Pass Road. Those trails are really nice although offer some partial views of the mountain right in front of you unless you continue higher up the ridge to get a clear view. An option that is more rewarding, in my opinion, is to go up from Enola Hill. The reason is that the trail takes you over the ZigZag trail which has an incredible view of the mountain. It also gives you a nice chance to explore the south side of ZigZag Mountain where a lot of Devil’s places are. The road to this trail is pretty bad so it takes a bit of time getting there, but once there, it’s likely you’ll have the trail to yourself. The first part of this hike meanders thru the forest as it gains elevation towards the saddle with limited views of meadows. In season the wildflowers are fantastic in the area. Still, for reasons I do not know, a lot of places in the area are named after the devil: Devil’s Lake, Devil’s Meadow, Devil’s Tie, Devil’s Canyon… I guess the devil made a mess here at some point. As you get closer to the saddle, the trail gets steeper forcing you to do several switchbacks, but then, the big surprise comes. First you see the end of the trail, and then you see the trail sign indicating the junction with the ZigZag trail and then, the view. A big drop off in front of you opens the entire west side of Mount Hood right in front of you. It’s simply breathtaking. From up there you can easily spot Burnt Lake down below but that’s not the only place you can get from this point. Following the trail east took us to the junction that then climbs down thru several switchbacks to the Lake. We found a lot of people and even more dogs enjoying the warm weather and jumping in the lake. We took a trail that goes around the lake until we found a nice place for lunch and then continued making a short stop on the south shore to wet our feet in the water. Later we hiked backup to the ridge, but instead of taking the same route down, we continued west on the ZigZag trail to the East ZigZag lookout for even better views. There are still numerous options to continue from here but to return to our cars, we took the trail that heads down to Cast Lake and then the Devil’s Tie that connects with the ZigZag trail farther down. From there we retraced our steps down to the car to finish the nice, close to town hike




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Mt Saint Helens, Jul 4th

If you hike or backpack or do outdoor activities in the Pacific Northwest, climbing Mt Saint Helens is something that should be on the to do list. Usually this is one of the first peaks I hear people climb as the only thing you need is permits. I think I kept from doing this as getting the permits is one of those things that you have to plan way ahead. Problem with that is if weather is bad then bad luck! This year Val started talking about it so we decided to check permit availability and found that most days were already taken except the 4th of July (a Wednesday). Since we didn’t have a lot of interest in doing the BBQ and fireworks thing, we got permits for that day. Mark and Carole were lucky as well to get permits for the same day so we formed our little group to climb Helens that day. I was very excited as I hadn’t done it yet and Val was excited as she was going to learn to glissade. That day we woke up to an almost perfect clear sky and drove early to Climbers Bivouac where we met with Mark and Carole that spent the night there. After getting our gear ready, we started our journey and not even 10 minutes into the hike, we found snow. That was both good and bad. On one side, it can make the hike go a bit slower as you are sliding around in the wet sludge but on the other, it makes coming done so much faster and way more fun. The first part of the hike was thru the woods without a lot of views so we did some “catching up” with Mark and Carole. Then we came out of the trees to a cloudless blue sky. Behind us we had Mt Hood and a very faint Mt Jefferson and to the East, Mt Adams. As time passed and we continued our climb, we left the green forest behind and got to the snow and rocks that would dominate the scenery. While climbing scenery doesn’t change much. You cross from snow field to snow field, pass thru rocky sections see the different paths people have taken coming down. You also get a good sense of perspective as you see the line of people ahead and behind you. Then finally the view changes a bit as you see a definitive line and nothing but blue beyond that. A little bit of a push and you get to the “summit” or better yet, the end of the trail. Yes, it is a bit anticlimactic but let me explain. In winter the rim gets a lot of snow and the wind extends the cornice far from the actual edge. In the past, people have pushed beyond and have fallen to the crater. So now, when you get there, you see markers that diminish the perspective of the crater (you pretty much can’t see it from that point). Now don’t get me wrong, the views around are incredible. You see part of Spirit Lake down bellow, Mt Rainier, Goat Rocks, Mt Adams… all of it. Now the good part comes if you walk a bit to the west to a small saddle. From that vantage point, the whole crater opens up in front of you and that’s where the icing on the cake is. Looking at the crater from that angle is just unreal. You can see the dome inside the crater and how several places are constantly smoking. We took a short brake near the cornice where could be out of the wind and then started our descend. With all the snow, we pretty much glissaded the entire mountain down going from slope to slope. It was a very fun way to end the day and yes, Val ended mastering self arrest.



You can check the pictures here

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Devil’s Peak, Jul 1st

Another Oregon Devil… this hike climbs up like there’s no other mountain anywhere. In fact, a lot of climbers use this route for training as they carry water up to the top. But, as with most hikes that are difficult, the rewards are well worth it… as long as weather cooperates that is. As you climb up, there are several view points were Mt Hood is right there in your face. At the top, there’s an old fire lookout tower that is open to the public. The tower is user stocked with food, water and fire wood so there’s the possibility, if the cabin is empty, to stay the night up there. On clear days, the views of Hood are just incredible. Not our luck this time, but we did get a pretty decent workout.



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The Rogue River Trail, Jun 17th

I have to start by saying that changing plans at the very last minute is not necessarily a bad thing. Our original plan for this week was to travel with some friends to Zion National Park in Utah for an epic 6 day trek in the park. For a couple of reasons, we had to postpone that trip for the future. Since Val and I had already taken the days of and had the gear pretty much ready, we started looking for options. Val suggested the Rogue River trail which was also in my list so at the very last minute we packed everything and took of. The drive south is considerably long so we took a leisurely day to drop of the animals, drive there and stay at a motel close by. On Sunday we woke early in the morning, had a nice breakfast and headed to the trailhead which was no more than 15 minutes from where we stayed. From that point we already knew it was going to be a very scenic trip as the river and canyon looked spectacular.



We started on a gentle uphill following the north side of the river and quickly got used to the fact that, for the next four days, we would have the river to our left. You could think that the scenery would not change that much in those conditions. That’s simply not true in the Rogue. Every turn of the river gives you something new. If that’s not enough, there are countless creeks that dump their waters into the rogue so as you hike the trail, you cross numerous very well marked bridges. The other thing we found out pretty quickly is that the trail is inhabited by all sorts of small lizards that run and jump in front of you. It was quite a spectacle hearing and watching them everywhere. Some of them even looked like small dragons taken from a movie or even prehistoric.



The first day, our plan was to get to Horseshoe Bend, a very tight turn in the river, and camp somewhere along the river. When we got there we found a small trail going down to the river and a big area for camping that was already occupied by rafters. Not liking the camp we decided to hike a bit further and look for either a campsite a friend had mentioned or something else to stay the night. We passed a couple of creeks without finding anything until a big opening showed to the left. It was Meadow Creek, one of the hiker only campsites. The site looked almost out of place as it was a big, flat area covered in grass. Perfect for our first night stay.



The following day we woke to a warm but partially overcast day. That gave the river a completely different look. As we hiked we saw the first set of rapids and some rafters navigating the river. But shortly after, we found a side trail going to Winkle Bar. We stood there trying to decide whether to go explore or not. On one side we didn’t know what we would be adding to the trip, but on the other, we didn’t know what we would be missing. So we went to Winkle Bar to explore and to our surprise we found the old Zane Grey’s cabin. It was not marked in the map!. AS far as we were able to find out, Zane Grey was the original owner of the land and lived in his little cabin in the rogue for many years fishing, writing and exploring the river. At some point he moved out and sold the land to the current owners who built a couple of cabins that are still there. Needless to say, the place is beautiful with access to the river and a big meadow that almost looks like a landing strip. It was a little piece of history in the woods.



We got back on the trail and stopped at the next creek for a lunch break watching the river. After that, the trail actually got separated a bit from the river as we were approaching the next piece of history, the Rogue River Ranch. Almost out of nowhere and after a turn, we came to this huge grass covered field with some buildings at the end. The Rogue River Ranch is another place that was privately owned where a small community used to live. It was kind of strange to walk from the woods to something that looked like a well manicured backyard. As we walked thru the property, we did check some of the buildings that are open to the public including a little museum. In it we saw pictures and part of the history of the several families that lived there. At this point the trail is a bit weird so asking for directions; we learned that we were at the boundary between the BLM land and the Rogue River Wilderness land. To continue on the trail we had to hike up to the road and continue on it until it became the trail again. Since it was already mid afternoon, we started looking for a camp at that point. From the ranch we had gotten the recommendation of going past Mule Creek and then looking for a campsite on that side. So after hiking on the road for a while we finally found the spur trail and took it. Just past that point we found a deer enjoying the shelter and shade of a big tree that couldn’t have cared less that we were there.



A bit further down we found the campsite just as the same time as a big group of rafters were unloading. Luckily it was a big enough site for everyone so we took a spot a bit higher to have more privacy. The area was great although very brushy so it took some time to find a god branch to hang food. Later that evening, as we were having dinner and talking to the rafters we learned a different trick to protect the food from the bears so all my effort to get a line for food was gone. Nevertheless, it was cool learning something new and talking to the rafters. They were doing a similar trip as we were but on rafts and what a way to camp that is. They had tables, chairs, a camp shower, a small Dutch oven… even a violin!! That was camping in style I guess.
On Tuesday we woke up again to a beautiful; day with some lingering clouds that were quickly dissipating. Before breakfast, Val and I took a walk around camp and towards the bend of the river were we got a nice view of the river bend were Mule Creek is.



After breakfast and packing our gear we were ready to continue without knowing that we were up to the most scenic section of the river. The rafters had mentioned a bit about it and also recommended us to continue to Flora Dell to camp. So that was our plan when we started. Soon after leaving Mule Creek, the trail started climbing on the side of the river as the canyon got narrower and narrower. The big wide river transformed into a thin, deep channel that snaked thru rock walls. As we continued, every bend in the river offered different views with incredible rock walls on both sides until we got to Inspiration Point. At first we though there was a building of some sort but we were wrong. Inspiration Point is just a viewpoint that looks over the Star Creek Falls on the other side of the river in this slot canyon. It’s a view that is not short of spectacular.



From Inspiration Point, the trail starts descending again as the river gets wider again and you leave the canyon behind. We did see a rafter coming down the channel just before some rapids but then the trail veered of at Paradise Creek and we left the river behind. Similarly as what we saw when we got to the Rogue River Ranch, we got to another big, manicured field with several buildings at Paradise Park. Paradise Park is a privately owned piece of land with a lodge and some other stuff. The weird part is we didn’t see any access to it and there’s some farm animals and machinery. We also saw several lawn chairs all around but not a soul in the area. It was very weird.
After circling the property, we came back to the river just before Brushy Bar where we found a huge campground and the ranger station. It seemed strange again to find such a huge place without big access. Either we had a lot of luck of not seeing to many people on the trail or there was something we didn’t know. In any case, we explored Brushy Bar and went all the way to the river for a lunch stop under the sun with our feet in the water.
After that, the trails levels out as the river continues snaking down. The hills on the sides became smaller and the creeks more sparse. Near camp Tacoma, at Tate Creek, we passed a really nice waterfall hidden in the bushes. A short bushwhack gave me a nice look at it



We continued on looking at all the different rock formations on the other side of the river until we got to a turn on the trail with an even nicer waterfall with a small pool. The water was cold and the pool in the shadow so despite me wanting to jump in, I didn’t. Also, I knew we were close to the campsite we were aiming for but I didn’t know how close or far it was



It was very close. Just after the bridge over Flora Dell Creek, we found a small spur trail going down to the river to a tiny campsite with river access. It was almost idyllic. Besides having space for the tent and direct access to the river, there was the creek dumping its water into a pool next to camp so we had cool fresh water on both sides. Passing thru some bushes and the little stream gave access to the rocky shore of the river with pretty good views to both sides. Certainly it was the best camping spot of the trip and probably one of the best spots I’ve set my tent in. That afternoon we took advantage of the creek to bathe and enjoy the last sunset of the trip



On day four we had a short hike to our exit point. So after breakfast and breaking up camp we continued on our trail with the river disappearing from view and us walking into what looked like farmland. As expected and despite the little nervousness, the car was waiting for us where we had asked for. And just to end the trip on a good note, on the drive home we went thru the coast and stopped at a small restaurant in Gold Beach that ended up being incredibly good.